This is what you're going to need to get started.

I use 20minute epoxy, no yellowing, a rotator, heat molded craft foam blanks, some brass rattles, tungsten putty, 1/0 gami shrimp hooks, and earing stems from a craft store, and some CA glue.

Start with a hook in the vice. Wrap a good layer of thread on the hook as it will give the CA glue something to bind into.

Slide the blank on and glue into place.

Set it on the stopped rotator for the glue to dry.

Hold an earing stem in a small needle nose like so.

Bend it to this shape.

Cut off the tag end of wire, put in vice, and wrap thread around the "tail receiver" so it to will take the glue.

When the blank has dried glue in the tail receiver.

Then glue up the ventral seam. Let it set up.

Keeping in mind the orientation of the tail receiver, bend another stem so that it will link to the tail receiver...

Tie up your tail...

Glue it and let it dry...

Take your glued blank and insert a brass rattle.

See it in there???

Next grab the tungsten putty

Ball a small amount up and put it into the body cavity just til it is concealed inside. This helps reduce the patterns boyancy and therefore makes it swim or "slide" in a zig-zagging manner. You don't have to use it, but if you don't you will have more of a popper. I reduce it's boyancy because I work these on heavier current and make them run to eddy water to slay smallies.

At this time detail it up. I have to get some tape but I will show you another time how to make skin for these.

Epoxy the blank, making sure you work epoxy down inside the head.

You're ready to get after the fish.

In case you're wondering I can cast this pattern 70' on my 5wt with my shark skin line. It flies fine.

Tightlines Safe paddlin!!!

This is what you're going to need to get started.

I use 20minute epoxy, no yellowing, a rotator, heat molded craft foam blanks, some brass rattles, tungsten putty, 1/0 gami shrimp hooks, and earing stems from a craft store, and some CA glue.

Start with a hook in the vice. Wrap a good layer of thread on the hook as it will give the CA glue something to bind into.

Slide the blank on and glue into place.

Set it on the stopped rotator for the glue to dry.

Hold an earing stem in a small needle nose like so.

Bend it to this shape.

Cut off the tag end of wire, put in vice, and wrap thread around the "tail receiver" so it to will take the glue.

When the blank has dried glue in the tail receiver.

Then glue up the ventral seam. Let it set up.

Keeping in mind the orientation of the tail receiver, bend another stem so that it will link to the tail receiver...

Tie up your tail...

Glue it and let it dry...

Take your glued blank and insert a brass rattle.

See it in there???

Next grab the tungsten putty

Ball a small amount up and put it into the body cavity just til it is concealed inside. This helps reduce the patterns boyancy and therefore makes it swim or "slide" in a zig-zagging manner. You don't have to use it, but if you don't you will have more of a popper. I reduce it's boyancy because I work these on heavier current and make them run to eddy water to slay smallies.

At this time detail it up. I have to get some tape but I will show you another time how to make skin for these.

Epoxy the blank, making sure you work epoxy down inside the head.

You're ready to get after the fish.

In case you're wondering I can cast this pattern 70' on my 5wt with my shark skin line. It flies fine.

Tightlines Safe paddlin!!!